Shantipuri Cotton Saree

Back ground

This fabric is named after the place Shantipur, a village in Nadia district in West Bengal about 100 KM from Kolkata. This place is well known for its Baishnab culture propagated by ‘Sri Gouranga Mahaprabhu’.

Since ancient times, Shantipur and the surrounding region have been famous for handloom saris. After the partition of India, many skilled weavers from Bangladesh, migrated into West Bengal and settled in and around Shantipur of Nadia district and Kalna (Ambika Kalna) of Bardhaman district. Both are traditionally renowned centers for producing hand-woven fabrics. Shantipur is especially known for superfine dhotis and saris with jacquard designs.

Material used

Traditionally, fine cotton yarn ranging from 60s to 100s is used both in warp and weft, 2/80s – 2/100s cotton muga and tassar silk are used in extra warp for weaving border design. Jacquard machines of 100 hooks and 200 hooks capacity are used weaving designs. Steel reed of 72 to 76 count is generally used and high picks per inch are inserted to produce compact structure.

Shantipur has been famous for its elegant designs inspired from nature and some of them are named as ‘Bhomra’, ‘Terchi’, ‘Rajmahal’, ‘Chandmala’, ‘Gont’, ‘Dorokho’, ‘Nilambari’, ‘Ganga Jamuna’, ‘Ans par’, ‘Moi par’ etc.

Technique used

Shantipuri cotton saree find its place in traditional fabrics of West Bengal due to its elegant look, elaborated design details and typical loom finish. Hank sizing using indegenous ingredients like puffed paddy(khoi), boiled rice, sagoo etc. for both warp and weft is practised in Shantipuri saree weaving. Now, starch is applied on the cloth beam and sun dried for getting stiffness effect. Fly shutlle frame looms filted with jacquard are invariably used in Shantipur.

How to distinguish genuine Santipuri Saree

• Shantipur saris can easily be identified from the extra warp designs. No other saris will have unique design arrangements like ‘Bhomra’, ‘Terchi’, ‘Rajmahal’, ‘Chandmala’, ‘Gont’, ‘Dorakho’, ‘Nilambari’, ‘Ganga Jamuna’ etc.
• Generally, no extra weft Buti designing is done in the saree.
• Comparatively stiffs starch finish is applied on the same.
• Comparetively high ends and picks are seen in the saree.

Source : India Handloom Brand