Uppada Jamdani Silk Saree

Background

Handloom industry has retained the age old rich tradition of hand weaving in our country. Uppada is on the east coastline and is about 25 kms north east of Kakinada district head quarters and a port town in Andhra Pradesh. It is understood that the technique of jamdani weaving was passed on from West Bengal to Uppada. Fascinating, unique and alternative extra weft designs are produced on plain fabric in jamdani weaving. In jamdani fabrics, designs intermingled with the basic plain ground weave are produced and therefore they look pretty and artistic. Jamdani weaving is locally called ‘Ani Butta’ weaving, “ANI” means “SHED”.

Materials used

In olden days Uppada Jamdani Saree were produced using finer count cotton yarn. Of late these are produced with mulberry silk in 2 ply (Gintam) in warp and 4 ply mulberry silk in weft for ground weaving. Silk / Zari is used for extra weft designs.

Technique used

Weaving of this saree requires artistic skill of the weaver as in Jamdani thick extra weft is introduced as per the design in plain shed followed by a thin ground pick in the same shed. This causes the designs look alike in both sides of the saree. In weaving of jamdani saree depending upon the number of breaks / colour combinations in the design, the no. of thills to introduce extra thick weft will vary per pick, which is laborious, difficult and production is comparatively low. Jala technique is used for production of Jamdani saree. Of late, Jacquard technique is used which is easy, simple and more productive.

How to distinguish Uppada Jamdani Silk Saree

• The designs are perfectly woven along with the plain ground cloth without any float on both sides of the fabric.
• The extra un-cut weft is interlaced with warp threads to form the design from left to right and vice versa in such a way that it cannot be pulled off.
• Turning of design thread from left to right and vice versa is clearly seen in the back side of the fabric.
• In Uppada silk jamdani saree, floral patterns, parrots and animal designs in bold form are woven by using silk / zari.

Source : India Handloom Brand